City Palate


City Palate - The Flavour of Calgary's Food Scene since 1993

THE ENTERTAINING ISSUE - November December Issue 2018

6 Quick Ways with Mushrooms

by Chris Halpin

The world of mushrooms is a fascinating one. There are over 10,000 known varieties and researchers say that this may only be about a third of what actually exists! Of the edible ones that I have seen in the city, I can count about 15, and of them, about 7 are usually around in various markets and grocery stores. Small crop wild mushrooms come and go fast! So, I like to keep my eye open and when I see them, I get them, and decide later what I am going to do with them. As a general rule, I will interchange any mushroom in any recipe. They will bring their own nuance and texture, so if you can’t find one of the mushrooms that I am suggesting, feel free to mix it up.

6_Quick_Ways_with_Raspberries

July Aug 2018

From Chris Halpin

I love raspberries! The thing that I like so much about raspberries is how easily they move from savoury to sweet. One of my favourite things to do in the summer is eat them right from the canes, no bending, just easy pickings. So, neighbours, beware!

Raspberry and Hendricks Gin

The raspberry pulls out the most wonderful tones of this particular gin and it is so refreshing. Half fill a rocks glass with ice, add 3 raspberries,
1 oz. Hendricks gin, and top off with soda. With the end of a teaspoon give it 3 gentle stirs, being careful to not crush the raspberries. Serves 1; repeat as desired.

Raspberry Mascarpone Omelette

I have always been a fan of sweet omelettes, I find them comforting and a little decadent at the same time. In a bowl, put 1/2 c. softened mascarpone, 1/2 t. vanilla and 1 T. icing sugar. Mix well. In a microwavable bowl, put 3/4 c. raspberry jam, cover and gently warm, maybe 20 seconds. In another bowl, put 4 eggs, 1/4 c. milk, 1 t. sugar, whisk to fully incorporate. Place a medium size skillet over medium heat and add 1 T. butter. When the butter has melted and is foaming, add half of the egg mixture and allow it to cook until the egg on the topside has started to set, before adding the filling. With a teaspoon drop a bit of the mascarpone in a line down the centre, use about half of this. Do the same with the warmed jam, but save some to garnish with later. Then add 6 or so fresh raspberries. Fold the 2 sides over the centre and turn out onto a plate. Repeat this again with the remaining ingredients. When both omelettes are plated, dust with icing sugar. Spoon some of the remaining jam across the centre and then garnish with some fresh raspberries to finish. Serves 2.

Raspberry, Caramelized Onion and Raclette Cheese Quesadilla

This is a fresh twist on an old favourite; this trio of flavours meld and pop in such a delightful way. In a pan over medium heat, put 2 T. butter and let it melt, then add 2 medium onions, finely sliced, 1/2 t. chile flakes and 1 t. salt. Sauté the onions until they are a golden caramel colour, about 10 minutes. Add 2 T. raspberry vinegar, sauté a minute more and set aside to cool. Grate 1 c. of raclette and have 1 c. fresh raspberries at the ready. When the onions have cooled, arrange two 10-inch tortillas on a work surface and sprinkle each with 1/4 c. of cheese. Then make a layer of onions, evenly arrange the raspberries on top of this, then the remaining cheese. Place another tortilla on top of each and press down gently. Place a large pan over medium-high heat and allow it to get hot – no oil is needed. Place one of the quesadillas in the pan and toast until golden and a little charred, turn over and toast the other side. Remove this one from the pan and do the same with the other. Cut each into 6 wedges and arrange on a platter. Serves 2.

Raspberry Caper Tapenade over Pan-Seared Perch

Keeping it fresh and simple is what summer and fish is all about, in my books. Into a bowl, put 1 pint basket of fresh raspberries, 4 basil leaves, chopped, 2 T. capers, 2 garlic cloves, finely minced, 1/2 t. salt, 1/2 c. olive oil, zest and juice of 1 lemon. Mix well, gently crush the raspberries a bit to make it a little saucy, and set aside for later. In a pie plate, put 1 c. cornstarch, 1 t. each salt and pepper, mix well. Dredge to evenly coat 4 perch fillets in the cornstarch mixture. Place a large skillet over medium-high heat and allow the pan to get hot before adding 1/2 c. canola oil, or bacon fat is heaven if you have it. When the oil is shimmering, fry the perch on each side until crispy. Arrange on plates, spoon some of the tapenade over each and garnish the four plates with 6 basil leaves, finely sliced. Serves 4.

Raspberry Balsamic Glaze Ribs

A neighbour recently demonstrated to me that you don’t have to pre-boil ribs or do any fussing, really at all. I have been converted! These are quick ribs! To make the glaze, put in a pot 1/2 c. balsamic vinegar, 1/2 c. sugar, 1 t. ground coriander, 1 t. ground ginger, 1 T. worcestershire sauce, 2 garlic cloves, minced, and place over high heat. Stir until the sugar has dissolved and then from time to time. Bring to a rolling boil and boil about 2 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium, add 1 c. fresh raspberries, stir and continue to cook until the berries have broken down and the mixture has thickened, about 5 minutes. With the ribs, you can choose to either roast them in the oven or grill them on the barbecue. Preheat the oven to 450ºF., arrange 2 rib racks on a baking pan and liberally salt and pepper each on the topside. Place in the oven and roast for 25 to 30 minutes, turning them in 10-minute intervals, until well browned and crispy. Remove from the oven and make a thick coating of glaze on the topside, return to the oven for 5 more minutes. When the glaze is bubbling, remove them from the oven and cut each rack into 2 bone portions to serve. Serves 4.

Raspberry Coulis over Ice Cream

Raspberry coulis continues to be a staple as a dessert sauce, making pretty much any dessert more beautiful and delicious. The thing that amazes me is how many people go out and buy it! It’s a snap to make and keeps in the fridge for at least 6 weeks. Into a pot put 1 c. sugar, 1/2 c. water, 2 c. fresh or frozen raspberries and place over medium-high heat. With a wooden spoon stir to dissolve the sugar and bring to a rolling boil. Continue boiling for 4 minutes, stirring from time to time. Remove from the heat and strain through a sieve to remove the seeds and pulp. Serve either warm or chilled. Serve over anything from ice cream to cake. Makes 3 cups.

 

recipe photos by Chris Halpin

Read Quick Ways in the digital issue of City Palate.